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Technical Properties of
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About the ASTM and API Tests,
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The Facts About
Aftermarket Oil Additives
API Comparative Motor Oil Testing
North American Engine Oils may be Harmful to
European Engines
Which 30-weight Oil to Use: 0W-30, 5W-30 or 10W-30, with
Discussion of Viscosity Basics
Ford & Honda's 5W20 Issue
Ten Myths About Synthetic Lubrication
Oil Color, Lubrication Ability and Contamination Level
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Harley-Davidson Oil & The Low Quality of OEM Oils
Why Harley Owners Choose AMSOIL!
HD Syn3 vs AMSOIL
Harley-Davidson AMSOIL Application Guide
Synthetics, Slipperiness and Wet Clutches - Simply Not an Issue

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The Facts About Aftermarket Oil Additives
What about Oil
Additives like Slick 50, Prolong, Zmax and others
The fact is they are totally useless and in many cases actually detrimental
or damaging
to your engine. If you
quietly corner a
lubrication engineer (in case he works - or might one day work - for one of
"those" companies) and ask him "off the record", he'll tell you that oil
additives are the modern version of “snake oil” sales: completely fraudulent,
they’re an unethical embarrassment to the lubrication industry. The Federal Trade Commission has issued charges of false and
deceptive advertising that these and many other additive manufacturers have
misled consumers into believing that their products offer increased engine
protection and performance when added to your motor oil.
FTC examples
Federal Trade Commission Charges zMax with False and Deceptive
Advertising
Read about the latest FTC charges against zMax in our informative articles
link. ZMax is the latest company to be charged in a long list of companies.
The FTC has successfully halted false and deceptive advertising by the
marketers of Dura Lube, Motor Up, Prolong, Valvoline, Slick 50, STP and
other major brands of engine treatment systems. Unfortunately, halting
the deceptive advertising does not correct the false word-of-mouth
advertising which continues to be spread by unsuspecting customers who don't
know they were originally lied to.
Without going into extensive detail here's what you need to know about
aftermarket oil additives: There are basically two types of additives used,
either Teflon based with PTFE (like Slick 50) or Chlorinated based (like
Dura Lube) with some type of carrier, usually a paraffin based carrier or
other mineral oil. Some have extremely large amounts of moly (or MoS2 -
Molybdenum Disulfide), zinc or
phosphorus: all are EP (extreme pressure) agents which are detrimental to a motor
oils' proper function in the amount that they use.
EP additives are
great in gear lubes (where they're widely used by the whole lubrication
industry), but they typically cause increased friction, heat, and reduced
fuel economy at the lower-pressure loads in an engine application. And
at the higher operating temperatures that engine oils are subjected to, EP's
typically break down and cause corrosion of copper/bronze/brass components
(bearings).
Teflon does absolutely nothing beneficial inside your engine. Teflon must be heated up
to about 800 deg. F to get it to stick to anything for friction reducing
purposes, just like the Teflon on a frying pan. In your engine what those
suspended microscopic colloidal Teflon particles do is gradually attach to
your oil pick-up screen and reduce oil flow to your critical components as
well as reducing the oil flow in other critical internal engine passages by
attaching themselves to the passageway walls. In addition, as your oil
filter captures some of these suspended Teflon particles, your filter
flow rate will be reduced with a higher pressure drop across the filter.
The increasing restriction can gradually default more frequently into by-pass mode
even at moderate temperatures and engine rpm's, which means more unfiltered oil will be flowing through your
engine. At higher rpm's, some filters can collapse from the higher
pressure differentials, starving your engine for oil and producing rapid
engine failure.
Ever get bleach on your fingers? It's pretty slippery isn't it? Same
principle here. Add enough Chlorinated components to a carrier and mix it
with some type of teflon, moly, zinc or phosporus & you can reduce the
friction, except for one "minor" thing: Chlorinated additives mixed with oil
and subjected to heat form hydrochloric acid! Hydrochloric acid is
extremely detrimental to your internal engine parts. Get the picture?
That's
it in a nutshell. Bottom line is: When using a properly formulated motor oil
you do not need any additives whatsoever and additionally, the additives you
may put in can react negatively with the additives the oil company carefully
blended in. Do yourself a favor and stay away from aftermarket oil
additives, regardless of how appealing the bogus claims are in their
advertising!
What if They Have a Test To Show How Their Additive Works?... Read
On............
At a recent trade show we attended, one of these miracle oil additive
companies was there with a machine that demonstrated how their additive
reduced friction. It was a motor with rotating solid steel disc secured to
the motor shaft and a torque meter with a flat piece of steel mounted on the
torque arm. They put every type of oil on the market, one by one, on the
machine & pressed hard on the torque meter and at about 20-40 lb-ft torque
the torque arm would stall the motor....that is, until they cleaned it off &
tried their (chlorinated) additive "IXL" on the bearing & ran the test.
People were amazed as the meter peaked out at 140 lb-ft. torque and still
didn't stall the motor! We knew what was happening but many unsuspecting
consumers were eating it up and standing in line to buy the additive! The
next day we showed up with some Head & Shoulders Shampoo disguised in an oil
bottle & had the IXL additive people try it on their test machine. The
operator was amazed as the motor just barely stalled at 140 lb-ft! The
operator says that's pretty good stuff, what is it? We said Head &
Shoulders. He was quite embarrassed to say the least. Head & Shoulders
has high levels of high potency ZINC in it that attaches itself to ferrous
metals. Coke soft drink will do exactly the same thing. ZINC reduces
friction and provides anti-wear protection and is present in most motor oils
at a much reduced level. Now, would you put Head &
Shoulders in your engine?
Additionally, the test machine was measuring EXTREME PRESSURE.
This was
their secret demo trick. Motor
oils do not have extreme pressure (EP) additives blended in like gear lubes do.
There is absolutely no need for EP additives in a motor oil. A gear lube
would not stall the motor as easily because gear lubes have high levels of
Extreme Pressure additives blended in, but do you think they would test
their IXL additive against gear lubes? Heck no! They use motor oil....They
are comparing apples to oranges & tricking you into buying their additive!
Same theory holds true for Slick50, Prolong, Dura Lube, Motor Up, Valvoline
Engine Treatment and many others.
By the way, I
personally requested and reviewed the available IXL "test data": they had to
mail photocopies. When I got it, I could see why it wasn't available
online. A couple of simple made-up tests done by a university lab that
measured HP and RPM differences so small that they could be due to
instrumentation error or morning/afternoon air temperature differences.
No standardized ASTM tests were performed at all: IXL has none of the API
industry-standard controlled testing results whatsoever. The
logical conclusion is that the product cannot show any favorable results in
standardized testing procedures. ("Standardized" tests are tightly-defined,
and proven to be very reliable and repeatable.)
Yes, but what
about Lucas Oil Stabilizer?
Isn't it used extensively in drag
racing? Yes it is, and it's a unique category in oil additives with a
milder version of deception. With high-alcohol fuels and high
horsepower, there is a huge problem with the engine oil becoming rapidly
diluted (thinned out) by the alcohol. To combat this problem, drag
racers commonly use a very heavy racing oil (like 60 weight), then add Lucas
to the oil because it increases the viscosity even more. That way, as
the oil is being rapidly diluted going down the dragstrip, when they back
off the throttle it might be a 30 or 40 weight oil instead of a 10 or 20
weight oil that would allow a lot of engine damage.
Now, what does ANY
of that have to do with your vehicle? NOTHING !
Adding their product to your oil will increase the weight (viscosity) of
your engine oil, which will decrease your fuel economy and increase your oil
pressure. Increasing the oil pressure beyond the 30 or 40 weight that
the engine's designed for doesn't help you. In fact, it's a negative
because it adds load to your starter and battery, especially in cold
weather, and it makes your engine wear faster. That's right - your
engine wears faster for two main reasons: because during cold starts it
takes longer to get the oil to all the components, and the higher oil
pressure drop across your oil filter means that more of the oil will bypass
the filter than normally occurs while your engine is warming up during
driving. So you're pumping additional wear particles through the
engine rather than filtering them out.
The deception is
that they want you to assume that what's good in a top-fuel dragster is good for
your engine, without actually making that claim on their bottle.
Lubrication engineers say:
Motor oils, transmission fluids and gear lubes are carefully designed and
balanced lubrication packages that are scientifically formulated and rigorously
tested. Want better performance? Buy a better product whose performance is
proven by industry standardized testing. Please DON'T be fooled by oil
additives!
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Oil Additive Questions and
Answers
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